Thursday, 30 April 2015

Ground #155: Rewirpowerstadion, VFL Bochum.

24/05/2015
VFL Bochum 0-2 FC.Kaiserslautern
Zoller '31, Hofmann '76
Attendance: 19,057 (2,500 away)
Admission: €12

The observants and autistics amongst you may have noticed that since I last posted my ground count has numerically reduced. This is due to me finally conforming to the sacred rule amongst the groundhopping nonce fraternity; to not include grounds you have not witnessed a match take place inside in. 

Some of you may have also noticed that I've recently been to Germany. Yet again. As usual, I feel like I'm indebted to provide a justification of why I've made an effort to watch a run-of-the-mill German second division game on my own in a widely-perceived dull provincial city. This time I'll shorten my answer somewhat though and list it simply as this; I enjoy watching German football live and I wanted to do it. 

Truth be told though, in the case of VFL Bochum, the game here chose me rather vice versa. Having been scheduled to work my standard 0430-0830 shift on Friday morning, I would require a flight out from Stansted that would be achievable to make boarding within the short timeframe window, that would also enable me to reach kick-off for one of the few Friday early evening kick-offs. This left me a direct choice between games at either Bochum or Nuremberg (another city very much on the to-do list) but I opted for the former because of my thereafter transport links (more on this on the succeeding blog in due course).

Fortunately both my train and flight into Dortmund ran as smoothly as so often proves to be the contrary case when you most need it, and my path towards the rewirpowerstadion (another case of ghastly commercialization - so it should otherwise be referred to as the Ruhrstadion) miraculously went without hitch.

VFL Bochum are one of the several big clubs in the congested North-Rhine Westphalia state; they reside just a measly 22.2km from Dortmund and an even scanter 13.1km from Gelsenkirchen, meaning they are sandwiched and have to compete with two of the traditional powerhouses on the doorstep. But the city of Bochum is hardly a minnow itself - with a population of 360,000, it is actually the 16th most populous in the country. And since its first elevation to the Bundesliga in 1971, VFL have only spent 10 seasons outside of the top flight, often yoyoing between the two divisions since the 1990's. This current season however is their fifth consecutive season at this level and there appears to be no lingering threat of them returning amongst the spotlight any time soon. 

Unlike their opponents on the evening, the traditional name of Kaiserslautern, whom have actually won the national title twice since I exited my mother's wretched minge in 1991. They are another recent example of a yoyo club and are looking set to return to the Bundesliga after a three year absence, going into this fixture sitting pretty in an automatic promotion bound second place and looking to waive off the threat of nearest challengers Karlsruhe and Darmstadt, or possibly even catch chase with table-topping Ingolstadt.

Upon entering the rewirpowerstadion and soaking in the pre-match build up, I soon went into sensory overdrive, lapping up all the minor and collective idiosyncrasies that so enlists me into watching German/European football.


  • The fans wearing biker style denim jackets with several memorabilia badges attached or sewn onto them. 
  • Spotting those scarf skirts or belts that look utterly ridiculous but you can't help but admire the fanaticism. 
  • The sea of mass colour, with seemingly the vast majority of the crowd decked out in replica shirts or some sort of memorabilia. 
  • The artistic fan graffiti that has been permissioned by the club, as well as the hordes of stickers you see splattered across the bogs and stands.
  • The broad spectrum of people of all different areas of society you see at games. In particular, the sheer volume of attractive female fans! Apologies if it comes across as condescending but football shouldn't be about a sport for working-class males as some people like to drone on about, it should be an all inclusive game for all variants of society. Young, old, female, male, poor, rich, transgenders, aliens, animals, bikers, goths, punks etc should be just entitled to watch a soccer game as the next person. 
  • Purchasing that first pilsener inside the ground, wandering onto the terrace and thinking "yeah, I'm actually allowed to do this". 
  • The stench of cigarette smoke exalting through the air. I say that as a now sneering former smoker as well. You should have the liberty of choice. Totally oppose it? Go and sit in a non-smoking area. 
And that is just to list some. 

There seems to be a perception with German football amongst the Safe Standing campaign activists back at home that terracing in Germany is mostly built with rail seating that gives you a designated area and exact space to go onto. This form of standing is extremely few and far between, however, and VFL Bochum's Ostkurve is certainly as old-school as they possibly come, and at wide odds with a perceived image of comfort and safety in mind.

In fact in the case of Bochum and it's Ostkurve, it was an absolute filthy dive! I was expecting the stadium to appear rather contemporary and well maintained. Oh uh.  Bird shit splattered everywhere, grimy and littered paths, the step pathway not clearly marked with nobody adhering to the no standing rule on the lines, meaning getting back down the exit from the top was a very navigating task that involved a lot of bumping, squeezing and pushing. But I liked it, it was a proper environment for watching football in, and good fun to boot. The roof of this particular stand was really low and made for strong acoustics, which was just as well as VFL's vocal core were reasonably loud for the duration, in spite of the weak on field showing.

Another remarkable thing I find with terracing is just how much it can increase a ground's capacity. In term's of size Bochum's ground isn't too much bigger than somewhere like Loftus Road. However, it's 29,300 capacity vastly dwarf's the 18k that QPR can fit in, thanks to its 13,100 standing spaces.

Onto the unimportant part - the actual match. I was expecting reasonably good things from VFL. Although their league form is extremely inconsistent (their 14 draws this campaign is the joint highest in the division) their home matches since the turn of the year had wielded a plentiful batch of goals (their previous seven home games had overseen a total of 31 goals). Thus I was hopeful I might witness some more attacking intent than I had seen than in February's unfruitful outing into the continent.

VFL were toothless in this one though and Kaiserslautern ran out comfortable winners, rarely requiring to venture out of second gear, though looked exciting and dangerous on the wings when they did break free. A solitary goal in either half was enough to see through the job and both goals came courtesy of the aforementioned fine work from the channels. The first was a fast paced, route one, flawlessly worked attack that saw a measured ball lofted into the path of winger Karim Matmour whom accurately picked out the run of the supporting Simon Voller, who duly finished smartly at the near post to score for the third game in successive. For their fluid, finely worked counter-attack they were shown their appreciation from a few bodies in the Ostkurve, a few beer glasses from the stand hitting a few of the celebrating FCK bodies.

Their victory was sealed 15 minutes from time with Voller's partner in crime Philip Hoffman also notching, guiding a header from a deep cross from close range. I've often read and heard observations that German fans are far more reserved in the stands during the climax of a tor than us British counterparts, but there certainly appeared to be some absolute fucking scenes amongst the 2,500 estimated away supporters, who went absolutely ballistic in the cornered away terrace.
I was impressed with their noise and support all evening. For a really away fan unfriendly 6:30pm kick-off, that's a pretty solid turnout for a 3 hour drive.

Kaiserslautern and their imposing, steeped stands in their gigantic Fritz-Walter Stadion home remains firmly high on my Germany footballing bucket list, they are a puzzling club with huge tradition and fanbase more than a relatively small, sleepy (some say backwards and inbred!) town of their size would usually attain. It is a place renowned for being Americanized, hence it's moniker of "K-Town", loving adapted in certain flags behind the goal.

As for Bochum, well, they competed well and played some nice possession football at times but rarely ever mustered up a threat when they ventured into the final third. Their lack of attacking prowess was summed up when much to my sheer surprise, the evergreen Mikkael Forsell leapt of from the bench as a late substitute for them. I thought his career was long finnished (crap pun intended).

Also unexpected was the pronunciation of 'Bochum'. I had always assumed it would be a 'Bock-umm' rather than the 'Boock-em' it appeared to come out in song to my tinnitus-affected ear drums.

I would certainly recommend a trip to VFL Bochum on the basis of this evening. It's not one to particularly set the pulses racing but it certainly makes a nice supplement to any football trip in that area, particularly those wanting to jump on the Borussia Dortmund bandwagon. It's a nice old-fashioned English style ground, the ticket prices are dirt cheap and easy to obtain and the atmosphere rings around well. Their home fixtures this season have regularly fallen on this Friday early evening slot, presumably favoured to avoid losing out competition to those at Schalke 04 und BVB. Indeed, their were hordes of fellow Brits in attendance at this one, probably as a warm up prior to the main event of Wesfalenstadion the following day.

Not for me however, I'm far too much of a  hipster wankstain for that.















There were hordes of evidence that the fanfreundschaft between VFL and FC Bayern is still as strong as ever. 





View from the back to the streets.

Scarf skirt.







Bochum ultras conjured up a nice little display before kick-off, sadly unable to be captured from the summit of the stand.






Most of the FCK lot were in the cornered terrace, obviously.

There they are. I need to invest in a proper camera. 

Monday, 13 April 2015

Ground #159: The Deva Stadium, Chester FC.

11/04/2015
Chester 3-1 Dover Athletic
McBurnie '46, Dobson '59, Rooney 71' | Payne 36'
Attendance: 1,645 (approx 100 away)
Admission: £10 (under 21)

With its impressive Roman Walls, rivers and canals, huge array of excellent pubs and restaurants spread across the city centre, the penultimate away game of the season on a Sunny afternoon in Chester was one to approach with as much anticipation as much as any of the many new away days on offer when the fixture list first emerged. This feeling particularly strengthened on a footballing perspective going into this game as we would still quite incredibly hold faint ambitions of making a very late dash into the play-offs.

Having won five out of our last eight fixtures, losing just once, expectations arriving into this game pointed all towards a probable away win; by contrasts the hosts would approach the game having just lost their previous three games in which they shipped a total of twelve goals. 

And during the opening 45 minutes of this game proceedings occurred precisely to how the form book would suggest, everything going swimmingly to plan with leading goalscorer Stefan Payne ensuring that we'd go into the half-time interval holding a one goal lead. He stabbed the ball into the scantily protected goal after Ricky Modeste's mazy run and cross caused confusion and disarray in the box. 

In truth at this stage our lead didn't feel particularly warranted but it felt like we were on course for another classic blueprint of many of our other successes this season; winning games, and looking comfortable in doing so, without ever really dominating proceedings. 

Such thoughts however were extremely premature. The party atmosphere amongst our strong away following contingent (in relative terms at least) completely eroded and rapidly so once the game restarted. Barely a minute passed when Chester equalised; a dreadful mistake was committed by our goalkeeper Mitchell Walker, who allowed Oliver McBurnie's weak, scuffed shot to squirm underneath his body after we failed to offer any resistance to winger Matty Hughes's galloping run. 

Just over ten minutes later they were in front. Direct from a corner, Chester were allowed space for a laughably easy headed goal, Craig Hobson glancing in unmarked from the near post. Walker hopelessly out of position for that one; signifying a poor afternoon for the young goalkeeper, his confidence seemingly shot to shreds here after. 

To be fair, there wasn't much he could have done to prevent their third goal and game killer. John Rooney, sibling of the potato headed England international Wayne, was allowed all the time and space he wanted after muscling into the box, then produced a precise curling effort into the corner and well beyond his reach. Game over. 

Our dismal second half showing was compounded by our inability to muster a meaningful shot on target as we never really threatened to get back into the match. The only redeeming moment was when midfielder Sol Taiwo accidentally tripped the referee, who collapsed like a bag of shit and milked the incident for all it were worth!
As poor our showing were though I was able to immediately forgive the team for their powderpuff performance. To have attained 66 points and be in eighth position with a few games still to go is just mind-blowing, especially when you consider we lost eight of our opening eleven fixtures, having fluked and blagged promotion in the first place. 

It's easy to come across as bitter in the face of defeat here but my thoughts would be exactly the same had we seen out that second half to plan; The Deva Stadium is a terrible, soulless venue. At complete contrast to the grandeur of the historical and wonderful city centre, the ground is situated completely off track and in the arse end of a grimy industrial estate, where a poor one-way traffic system is responsible for a congested taxi ride to and from the centre. 

The ground is tidy and efficient, don't get me wrong. Two symmetrical seated stands that run the entire length of the pitch, matched by two identical sized stands behind either goal; one seated and the other terraced. As a spectator you have sound views of the match. But it's just so plain, boring, ugly and identikit. The grim settings matched by a total lack of enthusiasm or noise from any area of the home ends. True, they had nothing to play for, and for some reason a match against opponents in a club of DAFC's calibre doesn't prompt much fervour or excitement. But it did highlight just how dreary some of this out-of-town breezeblocks can be; how devoid of serving the community they can actually are. While I regularly moan about the mundanity of the poor Crabble matchday experience I would now be completely opposed to building a new gaff in one of the surrounding villages of the town, as has been rumoured. 

Us Dovorians who made the trip provided cracking entertainment as usual, once again surprising our opponents who were expecting the standard Braintree or Welling level of nondescript following. I have to credit Darren Boyd for initiating a brilliant new ditty for our leading marksman; extremely unique by the current dull standards of the UK chanting culture, to the tune of 'A lion sleeps tonight'

He's a striker, a mighty striker, his name is Stefan Payne,
He's a striker, a mighty striker, his name is Stefan Payne,

Oh Stefan Payne, Oh Stefan Payne, Oh Stefan Payne, 
Oh Stefan Payne, Oh Stefan Payne, Oh Stefan Payne,
WEEEEE-OHHHHHH-STEFF-AAAAN-PAAAAYNE

I'm sure you'll agree, another brilliant addition to our plethora of shit songs to retro pop songs, which already include the likes of;

"Took her to the Crabble on a Monday, took her to the Crabble on Tuesday, we were at the Crabble on Wednesday, and on Thursday and Friday and Saturday and Crabble on Sunday" - (Craig David's 'Seven Days')

"You have got to swing it shake it move it make it D, O, V, E, R" (Spice Girl's 'Who Do You Think You Are')

"He's Ricky Modeste, He's better than all the rest, He's better than everyone, Everyone I've ever met" (Tina Turner's 'Simply The Best')

And last but not least; 

"Oh Ricky you're so fine, You're so fine you blow my mind, Hey Ricky! Hey, hey Ricky!" ('Hey Mickey' by Bewitched).

Regardless of the disappointment a matchday at the Deva Stadium brings, I would still thoroughly recommend Chester as one of the key weekenders to make a fist of while we continue to share a division with them. The city is fantastic and it is one for people of all ages; the younger whippersnappers looking to have a night boogieing and chasing skirt; or the elder couples hoping to unwind at excellent restaurants and good bars. And in terms of engaging in real ale wankery; you'll struggle to find such a dense concentration of excellent beer pubs. Telford Warehouse by the canal is awesome and has great choice for everyone, the Sam Smith's joint The Falcon is ridiculously cheap with great beer offerings, The Brewery Tap has eight rotating cask beers and The Pied Bull offers it's own excellent beer brewed en site. And that is just a small handful selection of the many on offer. 

For something more lively and upbeat; Friday night I enjoyed getting utterly annihilated in Off The Wall, a bar offering 2 cocktails for £5. On the second evening the widely mocked Martyn McGarrigle managed to pull off a miracle by somehow pulling a 37 year old housewife named Wendy in the seedy nightclub called Rosies; which he never even needed to work hard to exchange saliva. An absolute goldmine for ensnaring crumpet, my other friend Paul Sansum was almost actually disappointed by how little groundwork he required to put in while there. 

My Father and his Wife enjoyed their weekend just as much as we did, mainly for differing reasons though. He recommended both the Tapas eatery El Negro Pato and Turkish joint Istanbul BBQ as worthy restaurant choices.
As I reiterate; a city break worthwhile making for all pillars of society. 

And that concludes this season of away games for me, sadly. Unenthused by early evening kick off, lack of viable rail links and an omittance of any concrete plans from my friends and peers I have made the decision to pursue a more adventurous plan (which can be viewed in my list of grounds attended section) instead of attending our final game against Forest Green Rovers. A great shame but an excellent season is probably best concluded when we host the travelling masses of Bristol Rovers this weekend; a Gas invasion that will see us twice outnumbered as we bring their title hopes to a crashing halt provided we don't muster another half-arsed performance as per this past Saturday.

Having been fortunate to attend 21 out of our 23 away league fixtures this campaign, my first season supporting Dover in a national league and finally being a tiny fish amongst a large pond, rather than vice versa, I feel positioned and compelled to offer my observations of how the matchday experience differs playing proper, ex-professional clubs. 

As a borderline alcoholic and matchday binge-drinker extraordinaire, this league is the absolute dog bollocks. Ignoring the traditional Conference South and Ryman level clubs like ourselves, the list of excellent drink towns and cities is endless. It's actually quicker to list off the crap-pub towns than it is for the decent ones. My bank balance, liver and general health have taken an absolute hammering since the season commenced in August, which is partly why I'm looking to returning to a reasonable, more respectful lifestyle in the off-season.

In terms of the actual match watching experience itself though it continues to fall short on quality, for differing reasons. Don't get me wrong, it's fantastic to be able to watch my club test themselves at grounds like Blundell Park, The Racecourse Ground, Sincil Bank, Plainmoor, The Memorial Ground and other impressive football league worthy stadia. They are a world away from places like Gosport, Basingstoke and Ebbsfleet and I harbour zero desire to return back to the pits of our natural level at any point soon. 

The problem is though, I get the impression that very few of those clubs regard playing us as a serious game, the feeling of depression and decay amongst these befallen behemoths makes for more often than not a silent or dead atmosphere. Grimsby and Lincoln are two of the very few clubs that have actually bothered to attempt to make some noise or give us some stick back when we've played against them. But it's usually our double-figure sized away followings that are providing the only semblance of ambiance inside the ground, and even then it's only a smattering of us who sing up. We're regularly given a patronizing pat on the back, being told that our following was more impressive than expected and that we should be proud of ourselves. Torquay fans even remarked that we were the best away fans that they had had there in years. But personally I've felt that while our followings have generally been numerically at a respectful level, they could still be better. 

An example I could best list is when we played at Wrexham on a Tuesday night a few weeks ago and our 21 strong following was announced by their club over the PA. This prompted the entire home support to clap us and even a rendition of "loyal supporters" rung around amongst their vocal section.
Part of me thought "that's nice of them, fair play, good gesture" but my more cynical nature was demanding "why are they being so amicable to us"? It's a competition, not a fucking tea dance. I'd much rather have "your support is fucking shit" hurled toward us, being treated as the threat that our on field team deserves. After all, we took 4 points off of them this season. 
I was genuinely quite disappointed by the hospitality rather than hostility especially after being warned of Wrexham's less than pleasant reputation with an anti-English sentiment. But to the contrary they were one of the friendliest and most welcoming clubs we've encountered both home and away. 
"Loyal supporter"? Please, I didn't even bother going to our home match against Altrincham the week previously when I'm a season ticket holder and could made the game.

On the whole though it has been a vastly enjoyable season and a real privilege being able to travel even further wide to support my club, punching hugely above our weight as we've occasionally stung the nose of some of the big boys. Our last minute mentaller equaliser to silence 6,000 Gasheads at the Memorial Ground will rank up there as one of the most surreal and adrenaline rushed moments I've experienced supporting the club. Our first Saturday away game at Grimsby was almost as delightful and a real eye opener, if only Nanetti had not missed an injury time penalty then our 87th minute equaliser in that game would be equally as well regarded. 
On a personal level I do feel that ideally this season would have been better off arriving 3 or 4 years ago, when I was still such madly passionate and less apathetic about the club as I am now and there was still a greater feelgood factor at the club, but I shan't complain. I've finally been able to fill out my desire to watch my club compete amongst the big boys for at least one season. 

The curtains closing on this campaign marks the end of an era, the conclusion of being a regular matchday goer. I have been a season ticket holder since 2004/05 (though was a regular in the two seasons before that), barely missing any away games since March 2006, so it's fair to say I have squandered dedicated many years of my life disgracing the terraces across the southeast and beyond supporting the club. 
Come September 2015 I will be a resident of Leicester as a university student, finally embarking on something I should have started a very long time ago. Up until now I have known nothing but watching Dover Athletic week in, week out, year in, year out, an obsession so unhealthy that it ultimately was detrimental in enjoying or pursuing other aspects of life. That's my personality fault though, not the club's, and I'm hoping that regular spells of absenteeism will respark some of the drive I've had sadly lost. Absence makes the heart grow stronger, apparently. 
For the main part, it's been an absolute pleasure and I wouldn't change anything. Thanks.


Which they didn't particularly fight hard enough for. Chester FC, reformed in 2010. 


We'd still not have found either goal if this was on the pitch in the second half.










2
"Oi, you should check out the state of those bogs, I proper skidded the bowl!"





Sunday, 5 April 2015

Ground #158: Kenilworth Road, Luton Town. (40/92)

03/04/2015
Luton Town 2-3 Exeter City
Guttridge 21', Cullen 45' | Harley 51', Moore-Taylor 76', Wheeler 90+5'
Attendance: 8,755 (429 away)
Admission: £15 (Under 22)


"Remind me again, why the fuck are we going to Luton for?"
"I have absolutely no idea".

^^^ The above transcript is the opening dialogue between myself and Martyn McGarrigle, upon him boarding our train towards St Pancras. 

Well, whatever reasoning we had for making the trip to the widely derided Bedfordshire town it turned out to be an inspired one. Nobody could have forecasted just what a simply fantastic game this would turn out to be, contrary to the usual substandard, hoofball dross than I have been subjected to on previous outings to clubs in the basement divisions. 

Luton approached this game on the back of a six game losing streak, or eight defeats in nine, thus seeing them slide from being prime automatic promotion contenders to sitting outside the play-offs. Their ongoing misery would be extended come the end of this totally compelling fixture, settled in the cruelest of circumstances; the West Country visitors overcoming a two goal deficit to snatch the three points deep into injury time to mark a quite stunning comeback.

The game was overridden with end-to-end chances, many squandered, some dispatched with great aplomb, and a frantic finale that was craving a settled conclusion which ex-Staines Town winger David Wheeler provided after a header tipped onto the post rebounded into his path. 

As for Kenilworth Road, the venue of my milestone 40th ground out of the great 92, it was one that could be truly appreciated by the lover of traditionalist grounds.  There comes a point when the question "at what point does 'character' actually mean a 'decaying shithole?'" is poised and KR can arguably be placed under such a category. The ground has certainly seen better days; the facilities and staircases are rickety and ramshackle, there are real signs of decay everywhere and it's certainly not a place to watch football if comfort is at the top of your agenda for conditions to watch football in. Regardless though it is a proper old-school ground with steep enclosed roofing and is so tight and close to the on-field action. The beach hut executive side extending down the dugout side of the pitch is a real eye-sore and restricts the grounds capacity, but even so, it further adds to the abundance of character. 

Luton as a club desperately need to move to a new stadium, unfortunately. When you look at the size of the club, its town and its population, it is one with bounds of potential - especially when you look how much traditionally smaller clubs like Swansea and Hull have progressed since moving out of their romantic, yet restrictive homes. Thus I am pleased to have squeezed in a visit here, it won't be around forever and Dover dithered too long to get promoted to enable our chance of being able to enter via the away turnstiles. 

Sadly these right-wing nutter groups seem to prey on the vulnerable in less affluent areas.

Not your traditional football cuisine fare; goat curry served outside the stand entrance. Long live cosmopolitan Britain.

Indeed.